Day 5, Altenau to Torfhaus, 6 miles and Up all the way

View from the Gasthof

Uneventful walk along quiet road. We climbed 400 metres in 8 km so it was quite a haul but not to worry, have inhaler, will travel. The road climbed up through forest which gradually petered out, trees getting shorter and scrubby. It also got a bit colder. We stayed in the Torfhaushuette which is advertised as the highest Gasthof in northern Germany. It was basic but comfortable and my room was a bit like Heidi's must have been: all wood and red gingham. Across the road was an extremely lively and very large barn-type restaurant providing the most delicious hot chocolate. They even had a fire, imitation, but nice all the same.

From Torfhaus many people make the walk up the Brocken which is the hill in the pic above, and which during the Russian occupation was in the militarized area along the border and so was closed for everyone except Russian soldiers. It plays an important part in the legends of the area and is the reputed haunt of witches. The mountain can be seen from all around and 'Brocken Blick' became something of a joke between Jack and I. We had even considered walking up it ourselves but thought better of it. Angelo would certainly have put his four feet down at the suggestion.

Angelo was on grass at the side of the Gasthof. Barbara set up his electric fence as by now it was decided that she would give us daily support because Angelo could not carry everything. This helped enormously since it meant she could check his hooves properly and we didn't have to carry anything except lunch and wet weather gear. She also showed us how to persuade Angelo to go where he was disinclined and after that we had no more problems. Angelo brayed more than usual but he was wearing his new raincoat so was OK.